Wednesday, March 7, 2012

Old Joburg Architecture

One of my ultimate favourite things about Joburg is the architecture. Not just any architecture, the Arts & Crafts style of the Rand Lords and early pioneers and inhabitants of Joburg.

Most of them built their mansions in Parktown, along the ridge, overlooking the Sachsenwald and in the distance, the mines and the Magaliesberg. As with development in any growing city, some were torn down so that hospitals and highways could be built. However, quite a few remain.

The architect who I think is the founder of this style was Sir Herbert Baker (also the architect of the Union Buildings and train station in Pretoria). I adore his style! I don’t know why or exactly what it is, but his style just speaks to me. He used rock mined from the sites where he built the houses, had archways, sloping shingled roofs, great craftsmanship and tiered hillside gardens. I can imagine what it would be like living in one of his grand houses, sitting on the patio with a glass of bubbly and my golden retrievers, between the arches, looking down over Johannesburg towards Magaliesberg (though I’d have much better sanitation and a more comfortable corset). Sigh…

This brings me to the Parktown Westcliff Heritage Trust. It’s a non-profit organisation that makes sure all the historical buildings in Joburg are looked after and kept safe from government and developers. They organise weekly walking and bus tours around various houses and suburbs in Joburg. The first one my dad and I did was of the Brixton Cemetery (I love cemeteries, but not in a creepy way!). It was fascinating to hear the stories about the people who had been such a huge part of the Joburg history and growth, both good and bad.

We then discovered homes like Northwards, Villa Arcadia (owned by Hollard), Emoyeni (now a conference venue), Stone House (Herbert Baker’s own house), and historic streets like The Valley Road, Rock Ridge Road and Pallinghurst Road and the list goes on. I saw where gold was discovered - and contrary to what I had been taught, George Harrison did not stumble over a lump of gold, he blew a hole in the ground. We’ve done a tour of the Freemasons Lodge in Parklane, we’ve been walking through Hillbrow and the battlefields in the south.

I even owe my existence to one of these historical houses – Eikenlaan. It’s now the Mike’s Kitchen on St Andrew’s in Parktown. This is where my grandparents met after the war. My grandfather was in the RAF, my grandmother had moved to Joburg to work and they were staying in the same boarding house. My granny spotted my grampa (who was rather good looking and dashing) and offered him a cup of warm Milo…. and here I am!

So, do yourself a favour and check out their website www.parktownheritage.co.za and take a tour or two. The houses they have deemed historical and protected all have blue circular plaques outside.

Stone House
 Northwards

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